Friday, January 18, 2013

Bricks to Bread the Wood Fired Oven



This post was originally from December 2010.  I get a lot of questions on building a wood fired oven.  This walks through the process in pictures.  Please froward any questions with an e-mail address and I'll get back to you.
So the oven is completed except the stucco and paint, which we will finish after the pavilion that houses the oven is built. We are now working on our bread recipe and the layout of our lot for the future cooking school. Our concept is garden to plate cooking and the education of everything in between. I’m keeping a journal of this process and planning to write a companion book called “From Bricks to Bread, a journey into the wood-fired bread oven”. After a lifetime of cooking with wood I am now going in this natural direction. Bread and the wood-fired oven are both a real challenge. They require a dedication and the learning of the natural cycles of both the oven and the life cycle of natural leavens. I’m enjoying this process much more than I can express. Once again I’m excited about cooking. Kathy and I talk about these processes and possibilities for hours on end. We are planning our next stage of life. It will be based around the wood-fired oven and a cooking school. If this works out Kathy can work from home and we can cater, teach, entertain and offer a location for others to give classes and workshops. We are also going to offering a location for meetings and even weddings.
Below are the pictures of the oven build for those that are interested.


This shot is of the walls and the pour forms for the insulated hearth slab.
There are two layers of concrete, the bottom is insulated concrete, to hold in the thermal mass of the upper slab which is just sack mix concrete, notice the blue foam above that keeps the upper slab from touching the walls. This allows for expansion without cracking the walls, as the hearth heats up.


Wire mesh is bent to tie the two slabs together then tied to the rebar.


The hearth slab is supported by the rebar.


One of the most important bits of information that I have learned while building this oven is to mock up, stop, look and think, before setting in mortar. The shot above shows a hearth and oven wall mock up made with refractory. After looking at this I decided to do the walls with fire brick for more thermal mass. I'm glad I thought this out.
By mocking up the firebrick walls I could see how the layout would work. Below I used foam (it was free, use what you have on hand) to see the arch and as a guide while mortaring the bricks.

A mock up of the oven door opening.
Time for mud!
Use shims to follow the curve while the mortar sets.

Lots of shims!


The mortar coat holds the firebrick together and acts as additional mass.




The basic oven.



Next the oven is wrapped in two layers of heavy duty foil.

Then covered with wire mesh. Notice the pieces of brick used to set the mesh in the middle of the cement.




I used foam and old boards to make my forms. It was crude but saved a lot of money. It comes down to time vs. dollars. I have more time. Prior to pouring the second layer of the oven light a small fire and let it burn for a few hours to allow the oven to expand. Then pour, this will keep the oven from cracking as it expands from use.





Setting up the chimney
I know this looks lop sided, it's the photo.





Use what you have on hand like this strap in case of wind as the flue pipe set!






The oven opening and arch. There are formulas that need to be followed for proper heating and flow of ash and smoke. E-mail me if you have questions or come to an oven building workshop.
Worth the wait!
First bread!
The oven is far from finished but we can start baking. Much more to come!



I used foam to make the form for the cladding, his holds in the heat and functions as mass for extended bakings.

This shot shows all of the cladding before we close it in the walls and add final insulation.


The front arch form and keyway.

Chimney facia with cut to follow roofline.
Rafters and block wall that will hold final insulation.

Top view of oven cladding before zonalite insulation.
Once again "mock up" of tile layout.
Dry stacked block and anchor bolt for rafter tie.

Zonalite insulation.
Our new puppy Max.
Finishing a large leaf into the counter top.
Pour of tables for bread baking classes.

Mesh and bar allow a long table with a clear span. Make sure and let this cure, keep a brace for a few weeks to fully allow the mud to harden.
End view of north table.
Pour in front of oven.
Shot of tile roof. I bought the tile on Craigslist for $35.
Nice view of front of oven. I have hundreds of shots if you need to see anything just shoot me a note and I'll post it.




For Emily a poem by Daigneault


For Emily
a poem by Daigneault

I read the words
Your quiet heart
And spent a rainy day

From my sickbed
An easy walk
That land so far away

The time not mine
And eyes not yours
But time, and vision still

A glimpse of truth
These simple words
The world could drink its fill

And you alone
Said, “burn them all”
Our eyes were not to see

But saved they were
So saved were we
Who to pay this fee

Red Hot, South Texas, Shrimp en Escabache






Red Hot, South Texas, Shrimp en Escabache
Although this is a great appetizer we love it on butter lettuce with a few slices of avocado, warm bread and a good crisp sauvignon blanc!


1 Lemon, sliced
1-cup celery tops
½ cup crab boil
1 ½ Tbl. Kosher salt
½ tsp black pepper
2 ½ Lbs raw medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

2 medium white onions, sliced thin
12 bay leaves
1 ¾ cups canola oil
2 cups white vinegar
1 ½ Tbl. sea salt
1 Tbl. Crushed red chile
2 tsp. Pink peppercorn
1/3 cup capers, brine
¼ cup celery seeds
15 cloves garlic, cut in half
2 sprigs fresh thyme
8-10 pickled bird peppers or 2 pickled Jalapeno chiles, cut in quarters lengthwise
5 dashes Tabasco sauce
1 tsp. White pepper
1 tsp. Black pepper
Fill a stockpot half way and add the lemon, celery, crab boil, kosher salt and black pepper.  Bring to a rolling boil and then add the shrimp.  Stir well and then remove from heat.  Allow shrimp to stew in the hot liquid for 10 minutes and then remove shrimp and plunge in ice bath to stop cooking. Drain the shrimp well.  In a glass bowl layer the shrimp, onion slices, and bay leaves.  Emulsify the oil, vinegar and salt, either with an electric hand whisk, or in the blender.  Then stir in remaining ingredients.  Pour over layered shrimp.  Cover and refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours, stirring every 6 to 8 hours. 
Serves 8 as an appetizer,

Thursday, January 17, 2013

Chef Kathy’s Rainy Day Brisket


Chef Kathy’s Rainy Day Brisket
In the winter or on days when we don’t feel like firing up the smoker, my wife Chef Kathy makes this simple brisket in the oven.  It’s fantastic.  Kathy says the secret is to use a heavy French or Dutch oven that seals well, holding in the moister.
This recipe can be doubled for a whole brisket.

1 Beef Brisket, flat  (Brisket comes in two cuts the flat and point)
½ cup Soy sauce
2 (or 3) bottles of Modelo Negro or your favorite dark beer
1 Bottle of your favorite barbecue sauce (I like bill Johnson’s Mesquite flavor)
3 cloves of garlic, chopped fine
1 Tbl brown sugar

Place the brisket in a large cast iron Dutch oven.  Mix all other ingredients well and pour over the brisket.  Start with 2 beers and if the sauce does not completely cover the brisket add another beer.  Place the lid on the Dutch oven and bake for 4 hours at 375°f.  Slice or shred the beef and mix with sauce in bottom of the pan.  Serve on fresh French bread or onion roll.

Easy Taco Sauce


Ever wonder how that great taco sauce, form the authentic Mexican restaurants is made?  Great with any Mexican dish or chips, it's easy and you can make it!

Wednesday, January 16, 2013

Tequila and Magic in a Mexican Garden


Tequila and Magic in a Mexican Garden
By Mad Coyote Joe


            Looking over at the kitchen window, making sure that his wife Norma isn’t watching, Santiago reaches into the big burlap bag and produces a half empty bottle of JosĆ© Cuervo Traditional Tequila.  He slowly takes a generous gulp of the golden brown liquid.  Smacking his lips together, he utters, “Madre de dios, I needed that.”
             We are in the garden collecting hibiscus flowers for Norma.  After they dry she will use them to make Jamaica tea.  I am thirteen years old and spending the summer in Guadalajara, Mexico with Santiago and Norma. Years ago they worked on my grandfather’s avocado farm in Escondido, California.  They are both in their late seventies.
             “ Now you want to be careful to pinch the stem just below the base, like this,” Santiago said, carefully removing the flower from the bush.  “Turn the flower facing up and gently slide your fingers inside without crushing the flesh of the flower or disturbing the delicate core.”  The old vaquero gets a little smile on his sun darkened face and continues, “Trust me mijo, one day, when you have a senorita, she will be very happy that you know how to do this.”  He reaches over messing up my hair, while patting me on the head and then goes on.  “Pinch this part, called the pestle, at the base and carefully remove it. Then take off the green cup that surrounds the flower, make sure there are no little bugs and then drop the flower into this burlap bag.”
            As he drops the deep red blossom into the bag, he gestures with his calloused hand, suggesting that I start picking.  “Be gentle, and do me a favor, hurry every chance you get. I don’t pay you nothing for nothing.” He says with a grin.  “Every time you pick one of these flowers a new one will grow back the next day.”
             Checking over and then dropping one of the flowers in the bag, I look up and ask “Why?”
            The lines around the old man’s face tighten a little, as his smile grows and I can almost see the story coming into focus behind his eyes, “Well… a long time ago, a beautiful woman lived in a little Casita, that eventually was added onto and finally became our big house that you see before you.  Her husband got hurt and could no longer work. 
            “How did he get hurt?” I ask.
            “How do I know?  Maybe he worked in the circus washing the elephant’s balls and the elephant sat on him.  Whatever happened he couldn’t work.”  The old man pauses, taking another slow sip of the tequila, “Ahh! Que bueno… Soon the couple had no money, not even for food.  The woman was very worried and would cry every night right here, on this very spot.  One night a little fairy was out collecting moonlight and he heard her and asked why she was crying.  She said that she needed work, anything to feed her family.  The fairy, feeling sorry for her, said he would try to help.  He touched the earth and said something in a secret language that only fairies know, and then he disappeared.
            I break in, going along with the story, “A fairy… really abuelito, did you ever see a fairy?”
            “Gordito hush!” Santiago says, as he sharpens his focus on me raising his index finger, in an attempt to look serious. “Pay attention.  The next morning the very first one these bushes, popped up right here where her tears hit the ground, and the bush had one perfect red flower.  It was so beautiful that the woman thought it must be a sign of good luck.  She put it in her hair and went to town to look for work.  Times were hard and there was no work to be had, but richest man in the town was having cafĆ©’ on his terrace.  The wonderful scent of the flower intoxicated him.  Looking up he saw the beautiful woman with the flower in her hair, and had to have her.  He offered her money to spend the night with him.  She was so desperate that she agreed.             
            The next day, when she left the rich man’s home, she was overwhelmed with guilt, and went to the church to pray for forgiveness.  As she looked into the font of holy water, in her reflection, the shame of what she had done was as clear on her face as the perfection of the flower that was still in her hair.  And then it happened, as she touched the surface of the holy water, she saw her sins disappear while the flower shriveled and died.  Then the dried up flower fell from her hair, into the holy water, which instantly turned dark red, like the blood of Christo.” 
            “Was it blood?” I asked.
            “No, the holy water just turned the color of blood.  The woman went to the confessional and told the Padre about the rich man and the magic flower.  He thought it must be a sign from god, so he absolved her of her sins.  She went home with food and told her husband that she had paid all the bills.  She was free of guilt and her husband had no suspicions.
            When the Padre saw the holy water that looked like blood.  He worried it would scare away his flock, coming to confession.  He couldn’t just throw it out, so he blessed himself and drank it.” 
             “What did it taste like?” I ask?
            “I don’t know, but it looked like blood and the padre had the cajones to drink it!  The next morning when the woman went outside, the bush had grown a new flower, just as beautiful.  The woman, thinking that it might be a good idea to make a little more money to put aside in case of hard times, put the flower in her hair and went to town.  Another rich man fell under the flower’s spell and this time they went to a hotel.  Again she felt the guilt and again she went to church and again the flower shriveled and died along with her sin, but this time, not wanting the Padre to know what she had been doing, she caught the flower before it fell into the holy font.  She went home and tossed the dried flower into a big empty vase.  This went on for a while; every day a new flower, everyday more money and her husband never suspected a thing.  And their little shack soon turned into this big beautiful hacienda.” 
            Santiago takes the flower I am working on out of my hand and inspects it, “Good, make sure the center is all gone, it will make the tea bitter.”  He drops my flower into the bag and pulls out the bottle taking another sip.  As he savors the tequila he thinks about the story, then he continues. “I tell you Mijo, living a lie is a funny thing, it eats away at you.  Finally the woman could take it no longer.  She went and told the Padre what she was doing.  The Padre made her promise to quit.  Then he told her about drinking the holy water.”
            “Did she quit?” I asked.             
            “Yes, she did, but the bush kept making flowers.  She would pick them and put them in the vase, which was filling up very fast.  She decided she should get rid of the flowers before they caused any more trouble.  Remembering the Padre’s story, she made a tea with them and served it to her husband… the same Jamaica tea we drink today.
            Maybe it was the holy water and maybe it was her sin and the tea was delicious and it quenched her husband’s thirst; but not forever like the Padre who was never thirsty or needed another drink as long as he lived.” 

Don't Shake Your Fist at God!


Don't Shake Your Fist at God!

Yesterday I mentioned that we might, in an effort to change the weather, do a BBQ raindance of sorts to make the planet warm up a bit… at least our part of it!
In that post I mentioned "The Gods of Weather."
I was baking as I do most Tuesdays and everything was going fine.  The dough was a little slow but that happens and usually will still give strong 'oven spring,' creating good loaves.
They came out half of thier usual size.  I asked my wife and partner Chef Kathy what she thought happened.  She said, "it's the weather!"
I have several personal rules that I try to live my life by.  Rule #6 is "Don't shake your fist at God, anyone's God" even for practice!  My first writing mentor, the late, great, Paul Elswick, told me that after I told him a religious joke!  It has served me well.
We are baking today to serve our coustomers.  This is a religious repair attempt, of sorts.  Hopefully the bread will rise again!

Tuesday, January 15, 2013

Joe’s World Famous, Extra Decadent, Kahlua Cheesecake



Joe’s World Famous, Extra Decadent, Kahlua Cheesecake


Okay in regards to the last post maybe you don't want to go out and brave the blizzard.  If so get a good book, (any of mine will work… they make great Christmas gifts!) make this easy, delicious Cheesecake.  Put your feet up and wait this demon cold spell out!  Coffe goes well with Cheesecake… but coffee with whiskey (Bushmills is best) goes better.  If your office calls tell them I said you could stay in!
This is just plain wrong!
Joe’s World Famous, Extra Decadent, Kahlua Cheesecake
Easy to make and fabulous flavor!
Graham Cracker Crust
1 ½ cups ground graham crackers (Try the chocolate or cinnamon)
6 Tbl melted butter
¼ cup sugar
¼ tsp cinnamon
Mix together all ingredients well with a fork or in a food processor. Press mixture into the bottom ½ an inch up the sides of a pie pan or a spring form pan (for the cheesecake use a spring form pan). Place in the refrigerator for 20 minutes to firm up a bit. Use with cheesecake or other cream pies.
Cake:
The trick to making this Cheesecake so smooth and creamy is baking it in a water bath and letting it cool down in the oven.
2 lbs. Cream cheese
1 1/3 cups sugar
4 large eggs
¼ cup heavy cream
¼ cup sour cream
1 tsp. grated lemon zest
2 tsp. vanilla extract
2 Tbl. Kahlua or any coffee liqueur
Cut up the cream cheese and work it a few pieces at a time, until creamy, in the bowl of a tabletop mixer or food processor, on medium or high. Work in the sugar, then the eggs one at a time, scraping down the sides of the bowl or processor with a rubber spatula between each egg. Then set on low and work in the cream, sour cream, lemon zest and vanilla extract. Pour the batter into the pan with the crust and smooth out the top. Drizzle the Kahlua over the top. Place a sheet pan or shallow baking dish large enough to hold the spring form pan in a pre heated 375Āŗf oven and then place the spring form pan in the sheet pan. Add cold water about ¾ on an inch deep be careful not to spill any of the water into the cheesecake. Bake for 20 minutes reduce heat to 300Āŗf and continue baking for 40 minutes more or until the center of the cheesecake sets. Turn off the oven and allow the cheesecake to cool for 1 hour in the oven.Remove from oven allow to cool at room temperature for 15 minutes and then place in the refrigerator to cool fully. Work a pastry knife or butter knife around the edges of the spring form pan and remove the ring. Cut it up into pieces and eat it… Yumm!
Serves 12

Mad Coyote Joe's Secret Barbecue Sauce Recipe

Mad Coyote Joe's Secret Barbecue Sauce Recipe
Okay… I’ve had about enough of this cold weather crap!  I think we need to fight back.  You remember when Peter pan told the viewers that if they all really believed Tinkerbell would come back to life… to dated… anybody?  Well here’s the point, I think we, like the Native Americans of old, need to petition the gods of weather, to show that we believe it will get warmer.  
My suggestion, much like a "Rain Dance," light your grill or smoker and make some fantastic BBQ, in an effort to, just say no, to this cold weather.  
Remember warm weather?

What Secret recipe, you may be asking?  We've all heard about a broken down, Barbecue Joint on a dusty, back road with an old guy in overalls, working the pit. In this tale, the person telling the story says that the guy at the pit told them about his secret barbecue sauce recipe that his uncle shared with him on his death bed, swearing him to never give the recipe to anyone out of the family.... blah blah blah!
I've been told this story in different forms for the past 50 years.
Below is the best BBQ sauce recipe on the planet. If it makes you feel better, swear an oath to your uncle Joe, not to give this out!
You can call it Joe's Gooey, Sticky, Secret Recipe, Barbecue Sauce if that makes you feel better!

Sweet and Spicy, Pepsi Cola Baby Back Ribs.
My daughter Katie always asks for Baby Back Ribs with this sauce for her Birthday.

This recipe is for about 4 RACKS of baby-back pork ribs.

1 C Pepsi Cola
1 C Tomato sauce
1/2 C Dark brown sugar
1/2 C Dark molasses
1/2 C White vinegar
1 6-OZ Can Tomato paste
1/4 C Sweet butter
1/4 C Worcestershire sauce
2 TBL Balsamic vinegar
2 TBL Maple syrup
1 TBL Dry mustard
1 TBL Mild New Mexico chile powder
1/2 TBL Kosher salt
1/2 TBL Fresh-ground black pepper
1 TSP Wasabi powder
1 TSP Summer savory
1 TSP Marjoram
1 TSP Granulated garlic
1 TSP Onion powder
2 Dashes Tabasco Habanero Sauce

1. Mix all ingredients together and simmer over low heat until thick enough to coat the back of a metal spoon.  Slow Smoke the ribs basting with this sauce as you go.