Tequila
From my third book, A gringo's Guide to Authentic Mexican Cooking.
If your impression of tequila is
that of a cheap, clear beverage mainly used by power-drinking college students
on spring break trying to drink themselves into oblivion, you are not in the
minority. However, you are missing what this extremely well-produced national
treasure of Mexico is all about.
Here is a
little test to check your level of gringoness: What is the #1 way that the
people of Mexico drink Tequila? If you said margaritas, thank you for playing
but no cigarro! I love a good margarita as much as the next guy, but truth be
told, margaritas are for touristas. I was in Guadalajara as a guest of the José
Cuervo company doing research on Tequila when I saw the light.
Below is my
recipe for a Sangrita Mexicana. This is how the true aficionado of tequila
drinks it. Sangrita Mexicana is served in two small brandy snifters about three
inches tall—tequila reposado in the first and in the second, a beverage called
Sangrita, which is tomato-based and a little citrusy. You take a small sip of
tequila and then a sip of sangrita. This is sometimes served with a third small
glass of key lime juice or key lime juice mixed with Squirt Grapefruit Soda.
This three-drink combination, being green, white, and red, is called a Bandera,
or Mexican Flag.
Tequila, like
so many things from Mexico, is meant to be slowly savored, like a fine cognac.
Chugging it down would simply be a waste of good tequila, not to mention the
fact that you will get as drunk as a cow and everyone will know you're from out
of town.
Another gringo
misconception is that tequila is made from cactus. The agave is actually a
member of the lily family and not a cactus at all. Tequila is only produced in
Mexico, and by distilling the Agave Azul Tequilana Weber, also known as the
blue agave. Tequila is such serious business that the Mexican government
requires all tequila producers to adhere to strict guidelines known as
"Normas." In order to be called tequila it must be made from a
minimum of 51 percent blue agave. Furthermore, the Mexican government
officially recognizes the four following types of tequila:
Blanco
Basic, inexpensive white tequila
used for margaritas and bar mix. Made from 51 percent or more Blue Agave.
Oro
Gold tequila is either tequila
that has a flavor added or an aged tequila that has had a little white tequila
added to it. It's commonly used in the United States for premium drinks. Also
made from 51 percent or more Blue Agave.
Reposado
Meaning rested, reposado is
tequila that has been aged in large oak tanks for between two and twelve
months. This tequila is the most popular among tequila drinkers in Mexico due
to the fact that it has a full agave flavor. Usually made from 100 percent blue
agave. This is also my personal favorite, so before buying I always look for "Reposado"
and "100% Agave Azul" on the label.
Añejo
Añejo, meaning aged, in this case
for a minimum of one year in small oak barrels. It is considered by many
Americans to be the finest of tequilas, mostly because the select-oak aging
process creates a flavor reminiscent of premium whisky or cognac, a flavor they
recognize. After awhile, most premium tequila drinkers develop a palate for the
distinct agave flavor and switch to Reposado.
Tequila in
milder, fermented forms, and by other names, was made by the Aztecs for
centuries. When the Spanish showed up, they combined their knowledge of
distillation with this local favorite and came up with tequila. In the mid
1700s, the king of Spain granted a parcel of land to José Antonio de Cuervo to
grow blue agaves. By 1795, José Maria Guadalupe de Cuervo was granted a
concession to commercially produce tequila and "Tequila Cuervo" was
born. And from that day to this, José Cuervo has been the world’s leading
producer of tequilas.
So, whether you
choose an añejo with its deep, aromatic, cognac-like flavor, or a reposado with
its rich, full-bodied agave flavor, the next time you're having a tequila, slow
down and sip it with a little sangrita. Enjoy tequila the way they do, down
south in Mexico, and leave the power-drinking to the gringos.
Sangrita Mexicana or the Bandera Mexicana
Because this drink is so popular in Mexico, there are many
different recipes. I put this one together by talking to several different
bartenders in Guadalajara over a four-day visit. Sure, I got a headache, but
that's just me, working hard for you!
Sangrita ingredients:
1 1/2 cups tomato juice
1/2 cup Clamato brand juice (very popular in Mexico)
3/4 cup orange juice
Juice of 4 key limes
2 teaspoons grenadine
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
Dash Worcestershire sauce
Dash A-1 steak sauce (yes, A-1; they love the stuff)
Dash Tabasco
Glass II
Premium quality tequila reposado
16 key lime wedges
Glass III (for the Bandera Mexicana)
½ cup Fresh squeezed Key lime juice
½ cup Squirt brand Grapefruit soda
Stir together all sangrita ingredients. You will need two or
three 3-inch tall brandy snifters per serving. Fill one half full of sangrita
and the other half full of tequila (about 1 shot in each) and top each with a
wedge of lime.
If making the Bandera Mexicana mix the Key Lime juice with
the Squrit and fill the third glass half full, Sip a little tequila, sip a little sangrita, and a little of
the lime juice mixture, and now and then, take a little bite of the lime wedge,
forget the salt it’s for power drinkers. Oh, and one more thing, slow down a
little: Life is good.
Serves 6 to 8
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